Guillermo Mateo (El Torozo)

This modern route was firstly climbed by Gabriel Martín and Roberto Alonso. It has two differentiated parts. The first part is mostly of adherence, while the second one has more cracks and shapes. The compulsory grade is 6b+, but I daresay that it´s a little overgraded on topos. 5 medium friends are enough for the route, as it´s generously belayed. Excellent rock quality from the start to the end.

Topo from viaclasica

First meters of pure adherence (V)

Some cracks start to appear on the second pitch (V). It´s well bolted, as the previous one.

When climbing the third pitch, there are two possibilities. The hard one is perfectly belayed and is relatively easy for its supposed grade (6b).

Reaching the next belay station

On the next pitch. There is a roof that struck me as impossible when we were beneath it, but the route crosses it with ease. Great climbing meters.

The next pitch starts following a cracked diedre (6a), and then avoids the hardest part of the roof by means of a rightwards traverse (6b+). What continues is the hardest part of the route, which is totally secure and can be passed A0 (or 7a+).

On the hardest part

The start of the next pitch is probably the most delicate part of the route, because of the difficulties to place protection (6b+)

Coming out of the hidden crack

Reaching the last sections

Amistad con el diablo

Magnificent Route that crosses the steepest part of the east face of Urriellu in a relatively direct way. Due to the huge distances between belays and the lack of places to place friends, it´s not a advisable route for climbers who don´t have much experience in classic climbing. Perfect route if you climb easily 6b sport climbing routes and have a relatively good mental control when belays start to be far away below your feet.

Topo 2

Topo 3

Topo 4

Starting the second pitch. The sensation of verticality is constant since started climbing.

Last meters of the second pitch

Reaching the third belay station

On the fourth pitch (V+)

On the most difficult part of the route. The hard section is perfectly bolted.

Finishing the pitch

5th pitch, V grade but more exposed than the previous one. Once you pass the belly, go diagonally to the right, and then straight up. Its important to be able to see where the bolts are.

On the considerably exposed first meters of the last pitch

Photo taken from the finishing point of "Amistad con el Diablo".

From this point on, there are two possibilities. The first one is to continue by cepeda route. The other one is to abseil using the rapelsof the east face. To reach them, make a traverse, 20 meters rightwards. Look at the photo to see were it´s installed.

Nani al Urriellu

Nani route was firstly climbed by Hernán Llanos Balsas and Alfredo Diaz in 1974. This is one of the easiest ways to reach Urriellu´s summit, as well as a commonly frequented one. Recommendable route for a first ascent to urriellu if you have experience in classic climbing, or for a second ascent if not. Superb rock quality.

Topo taken fron http://entretenimientovertical.blogspot.com/

Topo 2
Topo 3

Wide crack of the first pitch (IV)

View from the first belay station (IV+)

Finishing the third pitch

Reaching the next belay station

This part has a tendency to go rightwards

eight pitch

The next and final pitch has a tendency to the left. It reaches a ridge on which you have to find the belay station. To get to the amphitheatre, make a traverse or climb another 8 meters to reach a tied block from which you can abseil. There is no need to stop in all the belay stations because there are some pitches that can be unified, but that´s upon the intuition of the climber.

Les Enfants de la Dalle (Dent d´Orlu)

This is one of the longest rock climbing routes of the Pyrenees. Its length (nearly 1000m) and solid granite turn this climbing in an experience that will get stuck in your mind for a long time.
To approach the area, go to Ax les Thermes, and then take the road that leads you to Orlu village. Continue by the road and stop at the end of it (there is a parking there, where you can sleep for a reasonable price, it has services and a covered place for cooking or bivouacking).

The approaching path starts from a small parking 500 meters back the last parking. There is a wide path, but that´s not the correct one. To reach the East wall, where you should start climbing, take the path signaled by a milestone (there are some red marks as well, once you take this way). When you reach the wall, continue trekking upwards, close to the wall. The name of the route is marked with red paint just in the place where the route starts.

Topo

First meters. The solid granite and its adherence facilitate the task

A hundred meters higher

Fifth pitch

Theoretically the hardest part of the climbing (6b). Anyway it can be passed A0 if wanted.

7th pitch (V+)

9th pitch

The part of the route marked as III grade is a bushy traverse, which leads you to the spade shaped side of the mountain. Searh for the place where the parabolts appear again.

11th pitch, the route is remarkable from this point to the top

13th pitch

14th pitch. Worth living passage with superb rock quality.

Probably the most difficult part of the route. 15th pitch (6a+). More demanding than the 6th pitch.

The wall shows more protuberances once you overcome the steepest part

Reaching the ridge

Looking back at ridge I was able to take a glance at my stressed climbing partner...

Advancing on the summit rigde

Secondary summit on our left side

20th pitch

Dent d´Orlu´s summit photo, with Pau and Arnau on our side. This roped team saved our asses from a tedious descent, thank you guys!

To descend from the top it´s better if we´ve left another car on the other side of the mountain, at the carpark above Ascou (1 hour from the top). The Other option is the long descent back to the base of the SE face, I´ve to warn about the wary way down if you try this option.